Cymru Culture

Articles / Erthyglau


(December 01, 2013)


Llandeilo - image: Flying Stag on Geograph

Llandeilo is a charming Carmarthenshire market town. Equalling the character and air of chic exclusivity that Cowbridge elicits, its range of independent and quirky shops are dotted around its winding and prettily painted (and often decorated) streets. We have been making it a tradition to stop off here on our way to Tenby or Carmarthen for a number of years, often on the premise of stopping for a coffee in its lovely coffee shop 'Rosetta' (wonderfully positioned for people watching in the town centre) or to pick up some foodie treats, or accessories for the home.

The town has two excellent establishments in which to stay, the well-liked and respected Fronlas and the imposing and grand The Cawdor hotel (but more of that later), as well as several B&Bs in and around the town.


Coffee at Rosetta Rosetta
Coffee at Rosetta Rosetta coffee shop


The main reason to visit Llandeilo, in my opinion, is for the shopping. The town has a lovely feel, is not cluttered and has not been invaded by chains. It has an eclectic mix of shops, tempting you with their hand crafted and artisan wears.


Seren Lux


We visited Scorpio (which is situated on the top of a small hill overlooking the church), and purchased two beautiful Melin Tregwynt cushions from the downstairs section of the store (accessed by lovely and original wooden steps) – a homage to all things blankets, cushions and throws. Above this there are a further two floors dedicated to home accessories, Yankee candles and the like, all beautifully displayed in complimentary hues and textures. The owner is most pleasant and we passed an interesting half hour, with him, discussing retail and the challenges of independent retailers during which he triumphantly announced that Llandeilo was thriving and that he, and others, were enjoying an excellent year!



Llandelio - Reading Room & Library


Further along (and down) the street is an excellent kitchenalia emporium 'Peppercorn', in which we bought two bars of the delicious NomNom Welsh chocolate. Further along is the Toast boutique, which specialises in luxury lounge-ware and outerwear, shoes and accessories, spread over two rooms. One of the highlights of every visit is to see their beautifully-merchandised front windows, which are changed regularly and are testimony to the art of merchandising/advertising at its simplest and most effective.


Peppercorn, Llandelio

Peppercorn, Llandelio

Llandelio Image 5

Llandelio Image 6


We stayed the night at The Cawdor, which is part of the Morgans Hotel group. A 4 star establishment, we stayed in a room called Laugharne (quite apt really as this was the next stop off in our 7-day trip) and were greeted by a large, spacious and clean room situated in the modern-feel annex to the main hotel. The room was accessed by steep steel steps (which would be an issue for those with limited mobility) but was fine for us (and was clearly stated on the website) and afforded us a great view over the main street, which was surprisingly quiet and did not disturb our sleep, especially when one observed the volume of traffic passing through the town.


The Cawdor, Llandelio

The Cawdor, Llandelio

 The Cawdor, Llandelio

The Cawdor, Llandelio

  The Cawdor, Llandeilo  

We had a generous, well seasoned and tasty Sunday lunch at The Cawdor hotel. The starters were especially generous and good value. Booking a table for Sunday lunch would certainly be advisable as the venue was popular with large groups, understandably making use of this lovely hotel for a fuss-free Sunday lunch with their families.


The Cawdor, LlandelioDining room, The Cawdor, Llandeilo

Just along Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo's main thoroughfare and the same side of the street as The Cawdor, is Catherine Povey Millinery (whom we interviewed in 2009, before she moved from Penarth). Catherine refurbishes designer hats and creates CP Millinery's exquisite hats in her shop-cum-studio, where they are on sale. Some are also available for hire.

Llandeilo is also good base for visiting some of the interesting places nearby and the countryside all around is quite beautiful:

The grounds of Dinefwr Park and Castle are only a mile or so from the town centre. Dinefwr was the chief seat of the kingdom of Deheubarth and the seat of Rhys ap Gruffydd, Yr Arglwydd Rhys (The Lord Rhys), one of the early kings of Wales;

Castell DinefwrCastell Dinefwr - image: John Darch

The recently-refurbished Aberglasney House and Gardens is only three miles west of Llandeilo;

Aberglasney House & GardensAberglasney House and Gardens - image: Stephen Marsden

Castell Carreg Cennen, the most spectacular of the Welsh castles, is less that five miles southeast;

Castell Carreg CennenCastell Carreg Cennen - image: Anthony Gostling

A great place to have your Christmas cards postmarked, the tiny village of Bethlehem is five around miles to the northeast.

Llandeilo is certainly worth a visit!

Claire Meredith, December 2013

Links to places mentioned above:
     Catherine Povey Millinery, 56 Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6HA: 
          Tel: 01558 822137, Facebook: Catherine Povey Millinery
     Fronlas, 7 Thomas Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6LB:
          Tel: 01558 824733, website:
     The Cawdor, Rhosmaen Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6EN:
          Tel: 01558 823500, website:
     Melin Tregwynt, Castlemorris, Haverfordwest, SA62 5UX:
          Tel: 01348 891694, website:
     NomNom Chocolate, Carmarthenshire:

          Tel: 01994 419886, Facebook: NomNomChocolate
     Peppercorn, 5 King Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6BA:

          Tel: 01558 822410, website:
     Siop Scorpio, 9 King Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6BA:
          Tel: 01558 824462, website:
     Toast, 4 King Street, Llandeilo, SA19 6BA:
          Tel: 01558 824330, website:

Also by Claire Meredith:
Tenby / Dinbych-y-pysgod; September 2013
The Old Chemist Inn, Saundersfoot
; September 2013

The Bunch of Grapes, Pontypridd
; September 2013

Gwesty'r Emlyn Hotel, Newcastle Emlyn
; June 2013

Photographic study of Newcastle Emlyn
; June 2013
     Lake Vyrnwy Hotel; December 2012

     The Drawing Room, nr Builth Wells; December 2012
     3 Pen Cei Guest House, Aberaeron; June 2012
     Escape 5* B&B, Llandudno; June 2012
     The Bunch of Grapes, Pontypridd; June 2012
     Photographic study of Myddfai; February 2011
     The Crown at Whitebrook; February 2011
     The New White Lion, Llandovery; February 2011
     Ty Mawr Mansion Country House, Cilcennin, Lampeter; December 2009
     George Thomas Hospice 'Style In the City' event; May 2009


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